常用面料及规格知识

1 涤塔夫、塔夫绸,涤平纺、涤丝纺  POLYESTER TAFFETA

平纹组织 涤纶

经纬:68D/24F FDY

全涤半光平纹织物。

 主要有:170T、190 T、210 T、240 T、260 T、300 T、320 T、400 T

T:为单位英寸经纬密度和,如190 T就是经纬密度和是190(实际一般不到190)。

 用途:一般做里料

2 尼丝纺(尼龙塔夫绸)NYLON TAFFETA

平纹组织 锦纶

经纬用70D或40D锦纶FDY,密度为:190T-400T

现尼丝纺衍生物很多,都叫尼丝纺,有斜纹、缎纹、格子、提花等。

 用途:男女服装面料。涂层尼龙纺不透风、不透水,且具有防羽绒性,用作滑雪衫、雨衣、睡袋、登山服的面料。

3 春亚纺   POLYESTER PONGEE

平纹组织 涤纶

经纬至少一项为低弹(网络)丝

经纬全是弹丝叫全弹春亚纺,径向用长丝叫半弹春亚纺

 原始春亚纺为平纹组织,现衍生物很多,规格很全,密度从170T到400T 有半光,消光,斜纹,提点,条子,平格,浮格,菱形格,足球格,华夫格,斜格,梅花格……

 用途:“半弹春亚纺”布料一直被人们制作西服、套装、茄克衫、童装、职业装等衬里辅料;

“全弹春亚纺”可制作羽绒服、休闲茄克衫、童装等,防水涂层面料又可制作防水服,雨伞雨披,遮阳棚等

4 牛津布 OXFORD

平纹组织 涤纶、锦纶

 经纬至少150D及以上

 涤纶牛津布:长丝、弹丝、高弹丝

 锦纶牛津布:长丝、塔丝绒牛津布、锦棉牛津布

 常见有:

150D*150D,200D*200D,300D*300D,150D*200D,150D*300D,200D*400D,600D*600D,

300D*450D,600D*300D,300D*600D,900D*600D,900D*900D, 1200D*1200D,1680D,

各种提花

用途:主要用来做箱包

 5、塔丝绒   TASLAN

平纹组织 一般为锦纶,也有涤纶

 纬向用ATY,纬向D数至少是径向D数的两倍。

 常规:尼龙塔丝绒,70D锦纶FDY*160D锦纶ATY,密度:178T,184T,196T,228T 现有各种格子,斜纹,提花塔丝绒

 用途:夹克,服装面料,箱包等

6、花瑶   FAILLE

平纹组织 全涤

 纬向加弱捻

径向:75D  DTY 网络丝 或 75D FDY

纬向:150D DTY   8T/2S2Z  ――(8个捻,2左2右加捻) 分全弹花瑶,半弹花瑶

 高丝宝:径向:75D  DTY 网络丝  纬向:150D DTY   22T/2S2Z 高丝宝纬向加强捻

 水洗绒:径向:50DFDY+50DPOY        纬向:150DDTY  8-12T/2S2Z

用途:服装面料,箱包等

7、仿真丝系列  IMITATION SILK

平纹组织 全涤

 1) 乔其    POLYESTER GEORGETTE

经纬都加强捻,2S2Z排列 75D

乔其:75DFDY 18T/2S2Z * 75DFDY 18T/2S2Z

上机17#*2入――(17号筘两穿,即上机经密34)

 常规:50D 乔其,75D 乔其,100D 乔其,150D 乔其

 2) 雪纺   POLYESTER CHIFFON

经纬都加强捻,2S2Z排列75D

雪纺:75DFDY 22T/2S2Z * 75DFDY 22T/2S2Z 上机19#*2入――(19号筘两穿,即上机经密38)

常规:30D,50D,75D,100D,150D

衍生:佳丽纱,奥利纱。。。

 雪纺与乔其很相似,雪纺比乔其捻度高,密度高

  3) 顺纡绉  POLYESTER CRINKLE CHIFFON

径向加中捻(18T左右),纬向加一顺强捻(28T左右)

75D顺纡绉:75DFDY * 75DFDY  28T/S

常规:50D*50D,75D*75D,75D*100D,100D*100D

主要看风格

用途:夏季女装,

8、桃皮绒      MICRO PEACH

平纹,斜纹,缎纹组织  全涤、锦涤

桃皮绒是由超细合成纤维织制的一种度薄型砂磨起绒织物。织物表面覆盖一怪特别短而精致细密的小绒毛。具有吸湿、

透气、防水的功能以及蚕丝般的外观和风格,织物柔软,富有光泽,手感滑糯。

纬向150D/144F或288F

细旦纤维

径向:75D/36F或72F DTY 网络丝

纬向:150D/144F 或 288F DTY   网络丝

因细旦纤维,桃皮绒磨毛后,毛感细腻

用途:沙滩裤,服装(夹克衫、衣裙等)面料,也可作为包箱、鞋帽、家具装饰

 9、麂皮绒    MICRO SUEDE

缎纹组织 主要分径麂皮和纬麂皮

 径麂皮:径向用海岛复合丝,纬向一般涤纶弹丝

常:105D*75D,105D*150D,105D*200D,105D*300D,105D*400D,105D*450D,105D*600

纬麂皮:径向一般弹丝,纬向海岛复合丝

常规:75D*160D,75D*225D

用途:窗帘、家纺、鞋材、沙发套、装饰布、女士春秋等

 10、玻璃纱     ORGANDY

平纹组织 锦纶

 经纬用20D或30D单丝,低经密,低纬密,密度稀疏,质地较薄,步孔清晰,手感挺爽,富有弹性,透气性好,穿着舒适。

 用途:夏季衬衣裙、睡衣裤、头巾、面纱和抽绣的底布,台灯罩、窗帘。

11、锦涤纺     N/P TAFFETA

平纹组织 有双色效果,熟称变色龙,径向锦纶,纬向涤纶,平纹织造。也有全涤的,用一根阳离子丝,产生双色效果。

 常规:70D*75D,70D*150D(加厚),密度有:170T,190T,210T,230T,300T

用途:家纺,窗帘,服装料。

 12、华达呢(全涤)  GABARDINE

斜纹组织 经纬弹丝,斜纹织造

 常规:150D*150D,150D*200D,150D*300D

用途:工装,服装等。

15 色丁   SATIN

缎纹组织 涤纶

分类:无捻色丁、加捻色丁;有光色丁、亚光色丁;

静月缎:50D*50D,50D*75D

无捻色丁 静波段:50D*50D,50D*75D

加捻色丁 五美缎:75D*100D无捻色丁

贡缎:75D*150D,75D*200D,75D*300D无捻或加捻色丁

用途:礼服,舞台布,晚装,里料,箱包料等

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